Greetings from Ed and Edith,
Paraguay is the wild west of South
America with lots of cattle and
cowboys called Guncho's. As we
traveled toward Asuncion the climate
became a little less harsh and we
seen a lot less of the Chaco(covered
with trees) and more cleared land
and cattle. We did not see crops
like the Mennonites had around Filadefia
and Loma Plata. They really understand
dry land farming with very little
rain!! Asuncion is huge and quite
modern and it was 104 degrees so
it is a hot country during the summer. I
guess it cools down some in June,
July, and August(winter here). We decided to book
the bus north for Brazil for Bella Vista. We had to wait
about 4 hours. Much to our disgust
when the bus came they said it was
overbooked and we did not have seats.
What a company!!! Finally after
they let others on way after we
were there we just got on the bus
since we had tickets. Of course we
had to stand but fortunately a young
boy let Edith sit and he sat with
his Mom and another boy so they
were small and fit OK. I stood
from 8 pm until 4 am when we got up
north. Eastern Paraguay is much
wetter and much easier to make a
living and we found lots and lots
of nice towns. The land is gentle
rolling with some trees and pasture
but there is farming here. Once
we got up north we needed to get
on another bus to go to the border town
of Bella Vista. It was a real
pain during the problems as I can
not understand them. There Spanish
is horrible with so much accent and so fast
I just can not get it and they
could not understand me so it was
a mess!!! We did not know we needed
to go to the other bus but they
came and found us, apparently from
a list the bus company had. We had
bus trouble on the way and had to
stop about 5 times. Something was
rubbing underneath. We stayed with
the bus until it got to the bus station
which by that time only Edith and I and
a lady and two kids were left. The
bus station was a locked building
and no one was around. I knew right
then we were in for an adventure of the
highest caliber!!! I was not wrong!
Fortunately the lady and I could
communicate to some extent in Spanish
and she was on the phone working
on getting a taxi to come and get us!
I read the Lonely Planet some more
and realized I had chosen the wrong
border town and we should of went
to Ponta Pora and not Bella Vista although
in the end it really did not matter.
We got a taxi lined up and he took us
to the Paraguay aduana and of course
it was closed for the week end and
so was the Brazil entry. They all said
it is no big deal and for locals
it is not. It is a total open border
like I have never seen and people
just come and go and never bother
with immigration. We got to the bus
station and I must say it was decent
and the buses were the best we have
seen since we got to SA. We got a
ticket for Jardim where I thought
the lady and kids were going to stamp
into Brazil. Later I found she
was actually going to Ponta Pora
where we should of gone. We gave
the kids a couple of ball point pens
which the loved! She would of liked
on to but we were out. Anyway in hind
sight I should of tried to change
the ticket or just threw it away
and bought another for Ponta Pora.
In my defense it is a little disconcerting when
everything is in Portagese and suddenly
you need Portaguese money and you
don't know exactly where you are. In about
20 minutes we were headed to Jardim as
I was able to pay for it with a
credit card as he would not take
Paraguay money which was all I had!!!!
Well on the way to Jardim I collected my thoughts
and decided we would just turn around and go
to Ponta Pora and check out of
Paraguay in case we were on a computer
system. When we checked into Paraguay
they just took our passports and went into
a building so we did not know if
anything was entered into a computer
or not??? At Ponta Pora we could also
check into Brazil. Pretty weird given
at Jardim we were 100 miles into Brazil.
At Jardim we bought tickets for Ponta Pora
which were for 3 pm so we had about
3 hours. I walked down town(about 1 mile each way) and
figured out how to use a Portaguese ATM
and then came back and got Edith
at the bus station and we walked
about a block and there was a place
serving beef on a steel spit which
they cooked over a barbeque. The lady
owner could speak only Portaguese but
she wrote out the two things they
had and showed us what they were
by what others were eating. Fortunately
the number system in Portugese and
Spanish is the same. We had all
the beef we could eat, potatoes,
rice, beans, salsa and bottled water
for about $7.00 each.
We left on the bus and went back
to Bella Vista and then headed for
Ponta Pora and we though we were
there and had gotten our bag and the
bus lady saved us and told us to
get back on the bus. She heard
me talking to a taxi guy and realize
we were getting off way to soon. She
understood some Spanish!! WOW we
still had 20 miles to go. A lesson
learned even if you can not speak
the language try and write the name
of the town or show it in the guide
book if this is where we are using
sign language if need be.
Brazil is by far the best we have
seen for infa-structure, you can use
the credit card, lots of ATMS, most
of the food is safe and the buses
are wonderful with air conditioning
and the bus stations are nice. It
was really pleasant riding the bus
on the oil road and lookings at
the rolling land, belly deep grass
on the cattle and cattle every where
and some fields of soybeans.
It cost us some extra money for bus
tickets but it was a great experience. We
ended up in Ponta Pora which is
a border town and all the Brazil
people go across into Paraguay to
shop. I bought a couple of Kingston
zip drives cheap and I guess for
a reason as one didn't work at all
and the other gives errors.
We found out we could not get our Brazil
stamp until Monday morning so it did not hurt
anything going to the wrong border town
other than some extra bus ticket
money. It was worth it for the
country and culture we experienced!!!
The hotels in Brazil have fabulous
breakfasts with the room. The big
thing is cake!! There must of been
10 kinds of cake. These were the
best breakfasts in SA so far.
We got a taxi driver to take us to the
Paraguay aduana and then Brazil and
then our hotel and then the bus
station. He could speak Spanish
so we had a great time. We had
to go to Campo Grande which is the capital
of Mato Grosso Do Sul which raises
more soybeans then any other state
in Brazil. It was a wonderful bus
ride and we seen field after field
of soybeans. They have a huge planting
season here as there were beans
ready to combine and a few beans
just coming up and a lot that would
be like August in SD. We also seen
lots of sugar cane and pasture and
cattle and termite mounds. We seen
lots of farms with big grain handling
facilities. We seen one large sugar
cane processing plant and a large
soybean processing plant. We seen
a number of manufacturing places and
all kinds of outlets for farm machinery
and tractors! It appears to us that
things were more prosperous here
20 years ago than they are today. They
stores and super markets look like
they have the latest stuff!! On
a down note we seen some horrible
shacks where people who do labor
in the fields work. It looked like
terrible living conditions.
Campo Grande has the best bus station yet
and beats out Potosi in Bolivia. We will
headedhead across more of Mato Grosso
Do Sul for the Pantanal to a town called
Miranda! The Pantanal is a huge
wetlands area with the best wildlife viewing
in Brazil and is better than the Amazon.
It is about the size of France.
We had another great beef dinner/
barbeque on a steel spit that the
cook brought to the table and sliced
off beef until you could eat no
more. There was plenty of things
to got with it but we did not have
much besides beef. With a 1 liter
$7.00 each! We are getting along amazingly
well in communicating even with no
Portaguese. Bom is good and
Spanish words are the same in both
languages!
After the Pantanal report we are
headed for Iguazu Falls the biggest
in the world and then Uruguay.
Ed and Edith